Australian Town and Country Journal at KellyGang 19/3/1870 (3)
Shiraz, which appears to be looked upon as the most valuable and universal wine in the vineyard, thrives in strong ground and is very hardy, standing heat and drought well. This vine was imported from Persia into the region of Valence, south- east of France, I think, by the Romans, and the wine made from the French variety is Hermitage. Muscatel is a heavy bearer thick in the skin, and, like Shiraz, thrives in a strong soil, while Verdeilho is a shy bearer and prefers a light soil. This wine is much used for "mixing." Reisling is a white variety in universal favour, and Gouais is the brandy grape, bearing prolifically in white clusters. As a general rule we may say black grapes for strong soils, and white grapes for light soils.
This vineyard was planted seven years ago, and the yield this season would have been upwards of 20,000 gallons of must, but for the present severe drought, which will reduce it to about 13,000. It is laid out on a rhomboidal plan, admitting the plough in three different directions. It is ploughed once and scarified thrice a year; and every third year ploughed twice; the stakes are troublesome, requiring constant attention and resetting; the only remedy seems charring and driving well down from two to three feet according to tho soil.
Beside the two vineyards above named, in the immediate neighbourhood of Albury there are Messrs. Shubach's (the oldest in the district); Phillipi's, a gentleman to whom I am much indebted for valuable hints and information, and who takes an enlightened and comprehensive view of this branch of colonial industry, storing his knowledge - got alike from failure and success - until he has attained to the manufacture of a capital wine. These and a host of smaller ones cluster round Albury, and are annually increasing, for vineyards pay better than wheat-fields.
In the neighbourhood of Corowa, after Mr Sanger come Messrs Forgeur with 25 acres, Ford with 12 acres, Brown Brothers with 11 acres, Magennis with 10 acres, Whitehead with 7 acres, Bow with 5 acres, and several ones, twos, and threes. At Howlong there are three beside Mr Reid's; altogether there, cannot be less than 450 acres under vines on this side the river, and if we cross over to Wahgunyah, we find them equally thick about Brown's Plains, Mr Graham leading off with 50 acres, Mr Ranthorp with 20 acres, Lindsay Brown with 8 acres; a German with 9 acres, and so on.
I will not presume to speak authoritatively on a subject that involves so many subtle problems that those ;who have worked at it many years scarcely seem to have learnt the alphabet of; but, looking at it from a common-sense point of view, one cannot help being struck with the amount there is to learn in the science of grape, cultivation and wine-making before success can be calculated on with anything like certainty in this uncertain climate. The experience and traditions of Europe are almost valueless here, and in many instances positively mischievous and obstructive; for a blind adherence to what works well in a moist and comparatively cool climate like the Rhine may lead to nothing but repeated failure and vexation when applied in the scorching winds, the roasting sun, and powerful oxygen of an Australian air and climate.
It would be by no means difficult to demonstrate that there are as many problems to solve with regard to this question as there are characters in the Chinese written language. In the adaptability of various vines to various soil; in the action of oxygen in the formation of tartaric acid and tannic acid; in the growth of starch and transition to saccharine under solar heat; then the action and counter-action of all these components; and the action and counter-action of the antidotes to be applied when the manufacture has gone wrong ; and instead of wholesome sparkling wine, we have produced a sour sick vinegar. I say those problems would, if calculated, amount to tens of thousands, and therefore all honour to the few who are patiently, perseveringly, and expensively working out some of these problems at their own risk and cost. For it cannot be denied either that such wine as you taste in Mr Fallon's, Mr Adams's, or Mr Philippi's cellar, is all that is usually claimed for colonial wine, - wholesome, pleasant, and much to be desired; or on the other, that such stuff as is retailed in Melbourne at sixpence a tumbler is altogether unwholesome, very unpleasant, and seldom desired a second time. What else can be expected? If wine, fit to drink is nine shillings a gallon in Albury, how can it do retailed in Melbourne at sixpence a tumbler? The public demand for cheap wine has been met by a cheap substitute for wholesome wine, which has had the effect of turning the public taste back upon alcohol and ale. This will eventually prove an immense service to the wine trade, for the manufacture of inferior wine will gradually cease, and those who now attempt to make wine will hand over their must, and ultimately their grapes, to those who can make it, and the bad article will almost disappear from the market.
Wagga Wagga, March 12. 1870
end
| ! | The text has been retyped from a microfiche copy of the original. We have taken care to reproduce this document but areas of the original text may been damaged. |
