Australian Town and Country Journal at KellyGang 5/4/1873
Sydney to Albury
[BY OUR TRAVELLING REPORTER]
FROM Sydney to Albury, upwards of 370 miles distant, and back to the metropolis within the week is a trip not often performed, and the notes of the journey might therefore be of interest. We left Sydney station at 5 pm. The distance to Goulburn by rail is 132 miles, and the number of stations and platforms between these terminii is twenty-five. We reached Goulburn about half-past eleven. Jones' coach was in waiting and drove us to the Royal Hotel, where we had supper and made preparations for the coaching to Albury. It was nearly one o'clock in the morning before the coach started. There were eight passengers, including children, stowed away in one of Cobb'coaches-which coaches, I may remark, might be improved in regard to comfort and convenience They are far too low, and have not sufficient room for double seats for inside passengers. Travelling is bad enough over the roads beyond Yass, without the misery being increased by transportation in unsuitable vehicles. In due time after leaving Goulburn we got to the Breadalbane Plains. There are three of these, the first separated from the second by a swamp, and the second from the third by a range of low hills.
We changed horses at the Breadalbane Inn, and soon afterwards we found ourselves descending towards Gunning, a small township thirty miles from Goulburn. We again changed horses at Gunning, and towards daylight reached Conroy's Gap, where there is a public house. But " the Gap " is historical, for years ago, some fearful murders were perpetrated there. The house that was the scene of the murders is deserted. After leaving the Gap we passed over some hilly country, and occasionally good views were obtained-deep gullies below and mountains clad in purple in the far distance.
About nine o'clock on that fine morning we reached the pretty, the picturesque township of Yass, fifty five miles from Goulburn. The township is built on the western edge of a long series of gently undulating plains, or more properly downs, called Yass Plains, but beyond these the country is exceedingly mountainous. On three sides there are great ranges visible Yass is one of the principal agricultural districts of the south, and there are a large number of free selectors in the district; and about the town there are some fine tracts of agricultural land. Entering the town there was pointed out the secluded comfortable residence of the famous old explorer Mr. Hamilton Hume, the discoverer of the overland route to Port Phillip, fifty years ago. Mr Hume is still alive and hearty. The coach pulled up at host Colls' Commercial Hotel, where we enjoyed our ablutions and a good breakfast. After this we had time to look at the town of about 1000 inhabitants, and admire some of the buildings, the river, and the great iron bridge spanning the river.
Leaving Yass, after a stay of a few hours, we passed over some undulating country, and about eight or ton miles beyond, reached Bowning, a small roadside village, having two hotels and a school. One of the best views on the whole route is to be had at Bowning. Rising near the village, and, in fact, almost overhanging it, is Mount Bowning, a hill of considerable elevation. It has a very bold appearance. We were told that some years ago the entire mountain was on fire, and it then presented a most magnificent sight from all parts of the neighbouring country.
A few miles beyond we changed horses, and then passed through some barren country for several miles past Bookham, an incipient postal village. It contains a fine hotel (Maginnis'), built of stone, and the Bookham Arms (I think), where we rested for a few minutes. As the day began to advance, the want of sleep was tolling on the passengers in the coach. Towards the afternoon a well-known halting place, for years known as "Nanny Byrne's," was reached; and while we were having refreshments, Nanny Byrne's history was told us by the present holder of the accommodation house. This remarkable woman came to the district over thirty years ago. She settled down on this spot, and on a change of proprietors of the station, an attempt was made to oust her by the new owner. This was not so easy a task as he imagined. She took up a run and defied the police who came to the squatter's assistance. In undisturbed possession she remained till her death, which occurred some years ago. Nanny Byrnes was a strong-minded powerful woman, held in great awe and respect by the neighbours and travellers, and in succession by her three husbands. She did a good liquor trade, which could be scarcely said to be "on the sly," because so undisguised, for who so daring or courageous or mean as to "inform " on Nanny? And she also made a good deal of money in other ways; yet she was by no means economical, and is said to have been generous and kind to a degree, for no hungry traveller over passed her door.
The next stage, was through beautiful country and the fine station property of Mr Macansh, brought us to Jugiong, twenty-five miles from Gundagai, where we changed horses, and had some refreshment at M. Sheaban's hotel. The evening of the second day then closed in, and we began to travel in darkness again for fifteen miles, when we arrived at the small village of Coolac. Another change of horses, and ten miles beyond passed a number of farms and comfortable houses and a flour mill, and we arrived at Gundagai.
Gundagai is picturesquely situated for a village, but the situation is altogether unsuited for expanding into an important township. The site of the town proper is on the side of the hill called Mount Parnassus; below is the valley of the Murrumbidgee and the river itself, and in the distance is a long chain in of hills called the Kimo Tangos. All these are gold-bearing, and nature has been additionally bountiful in providing magnificent agricultural lands and very fertile flats for some miles below. We remained about an hour and a half at a fine hotel (J W Fry's) there, where we had a substantial supper, and then proceeded on our journey. The first object of attraction is the great Gundagai bridge, stretching with approaches for nearly three-quarters of a mile across the flats and the river.
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